Mini-trip #1: Saga, Kumamoto, Hiroshima

Oh my god ahhhh I’m leaving tomorrow for a two-week trip with my mom, and then a few days later it’s the opening of the World Expo (commemorative Myaku-Myaku ICOCA here I come!) and then a week after that I leave on my Golden Week trip. ALREADY. I feel like I just wrote about GW last year. It’s the second most recent post on this blog! And I want to write about my upcoming big GW trip year, of course, but have so much to write about that I’ve done in the recent past too that I’ve been putting off. I’m so behind. Ahhhhhhh.

I also received two very kind messages recently which motivated me to write this post in a very spur-of-the-moment fashion all in one go:

“haiii i stumbled across your blog while i was bored at work and i literally love reading them (especially the juzo itami one) can u please write more so i wont be bored at work. 🙏 thank you so much. you are awesome.”

“Just wanted to tell you and ive been reading your blog for the last hr and half and I’m and not only nostalgic (seishunjuhachi Kippu proud traveler) and learning (didn’t know ‘Kokeshi’ is actually Sendai Ben and I lived near the kokeshi museum in Kuroishi) but laughing my butt off […] I have a special love and respect for writers. I hope you continue.”

Thanks, guys!

OK, so for my New Year’s holiday three months back, I went to Hokkaido to bask in the snow. It was wonderful and that will be a long post at some point hopefully not too far in the future from now with lots of pictures as I make my way through all my trips chronologically. For now, this shorter post is focused on the first of a bunch of mini-trips I did before then.

It’s November 23, 2024. I had recently tried, and succeeded (I thought) in convincing some fellow-foreigner acquaintances from work to drive (the horror) to Shirakawago. They like cars and were down. We had plans in place already, but then one of them, the same morning, was afraid “there might be snow” (there wasn’t) so he pulls out. The other one suddenly “has to be back by afternoon” to “deliver some documents” and didn’t realize how far away it was despite living here since he was a teenager. OK. This is very typical, frankly. So the plan to go to Gifu is cancelled. At the exact same time, my Japanese IC card collecting friend Sunagawa-san, who lives in Kyushu, happens to be down in Kumamoto to see some plane that he’s obsessed with that looks like a dolphin, and confirms to me – I had asked prior – that the old Kumamon no IC Card design is still available in some vending machines, which I had learned about after having spotted it in a photo on Twitter few days back. And not only that, but the JR Kyushu Twitter account had posted that somehow the Sagan Tosu SUGOCA (commemorative design for the local professional soccer team who according to my undergrad friend are very mediocre) is also still available at one single station, five months after its initial release… with limited, decreasing stock. Who knows how long they’ll both still be around.

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My “Seishun 18” Koshinetsu–Tohoku Obon adventure

OK, I’m a convert. Sitting on trains for up to eight hours a day, mostly as a way to escape the up-to-40°C / 104°F temperatures outside and sit inside an air-conditioned vehicle? Getting to pay a flat rate for unlimited rides on JR local lines across the country? Finally getting to travel back up to Tohoku (north-eastern Japan) for the first time in seven years? Absolutely yes, sign me up. I was a little worried it might be too much for me going in, too much sitting, or too much traveling and transit-ing, but in reality, I can’t wait to do it again.

Every summer (actually three times throughout the year, for a fixed amount of time only) all the Japan Railways Group companies release the Seishun 18 Kippu, or the “Youth 18 Ticket”, a discount railway pass (intended for poor students, hence the name, although with no age limit or rider restrictions) which allows users to ride an unlimited number of JR trains and lines across the country for five non-consecutive days1Well… more on this at the end. for a pretty affordable price. The catch is that it only gets you access to conventional lines, which are of course slow, stopping at nearly every single station – no high-speed limited expresses or shinkansen, not even if you pay the express fare on top. But this ticket is famous in Japan, well-known and well-loved since the summer of 1982 when it first went on sale. As a public transit aficionado, it felt like a rite of passage for me to at least use it once during my time living in this country, right?

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Golden Week in Hiroshima and Kyushu!

At the end of April and beginning of May, I took a big Golden Week trip westward and down through Kyushu. I have multiple friends who’ve visited or who have extended family in Fukuoka – they’ve all had nothing but great things to say about it, and likewise I’ve wanted to visit Hiroshima on my own as well. I had a week off for the holidays, so with this, plus my general enjoyment of traveling and seeing new places… and motivated by the fact that Kyushu is unequivocally the best place in Japan to get tons and tons of IC cards… I made a spreadsheet to plan and figure out how to handle all of these magnetic paper tickets:

Most (not all) of my tickets. Not as complicated as it might look. I promise!

This was my first time making (heavy) use of both stopovers (途中下車 tochuu gesha) and round-trip discounts (往復割引 oufuku waribiki), as I was traveling along a single, straight route via shinkansen but wanted to stop off at various places along the way.

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The (R)ides of March

It’s been a while! I frankly got a little burnt out on writing (and still am, honestly) but finally got some motivation to write about my trip last month. March 16 was a big day for public transport in Japan: the Hokuriku Shinkansen got extended from Kanazawa to Tsuruga, the Thunderbird and Shirasagi limited express trains had their routes shortened as a result, JR West gave up ownership of the local Hokuriku Main Line over this portion of the track, and timetables & fares for public and private trains across the country were revised. The third of these reasons was the impetus for my trip, though – with the new Hapi-Line Fukui third-sector railway company beginning operations, they also released a commemorative ICOCA!

My big transit-focused hobby is collecting IC cards (I have 54, as of this post, all obtained myself, and all via public transport, in my five-ish months since moving to Japan) and a trip up to the Hokuriku region was a good way to snag a lot more, explore a part of the country I hadn’t been to much, and get a fun weekend vacation out of it.

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Koki Mitani’s Odessa

“Three characters. Two languages. One truth.” This is the idea behind Odessa (オデッサ), Koki Mitani’s first new play in three and a half years, set in 1999 in the American town of Odessa, Texas. A Japanese tourist is detained on suspicion of murder. The detective, while of Japanese descent, only speaks English. And so an interpreter, a Japanese student studying abroad, is brought in to translate. But as the tagline tells us, “現実 (genjitsu, ‘truth’) is stranger than TRUTH.” Confused? Hell yeah.

Kōki Mitani is pretty much the theater world’s version of Juzo Itami: a sensationally multitalented artist who writes and directs all of his own productions, frequently re-casts the same groups of actors in everything he makes, working to create intertextual comedies that are often inspired by American sensibilities… He’s even, fittingly, the recipient of last year’s Juzo Itami Award, which honored his achievement and outstanding talent in many of the same areas Itami worked. And while, also like Itami, he’s (for some cruel and baffling reason) practically unheard of in the West, writer Nobuko Tanaka starts off her 2012 article and interview in the Japan Times about his domestic popularity with a simple fact: “Koki Mitani is far and away the nation’s best-known dramatist.”

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